The Exotic Proust’s Madeleines: Chef Mickaël Falotte’s Ravioli
In the realm of culinary sensations, certain dishes hold a special place, evoking cherished memories and transporting us to distant lands. For Eurasian chef Mickaël Falotte, fried shrimp ravioli holds such a nostalgic significance.
"My mother, who was born in Vietnam, used to make them for me all the time when I was a child," says Falotte, who now presides over the kitchen of Capsule, a restaurant nestled near the Cochin Hospital in the 14th arrondissement of Paris.
Within the pastel green walls of Capsule, decorated in a modern bistro style, Falotte creates tantalizing dishes that have garnered acclaim far beyond the neighborhood’s usual dining scene. Among them is a crispy langoustine ravioli, drenched in a crustacean emulsion, reminiscent of his childhood Vietnamese delicacy.
A Culinary Journey Across Continents
One bite of the ravioli transports diners on a culinary adventure that spans continents. The enveloping jus, a rich amber hue, enchants the eyes before captivating the palate. Made from caramelized langoustine shells deglazed with cognac and seasoned with star anise, it boasts a full-bodied flavor and a velvety smoothness, without overwhelming the crispy ravioli shell.
Inside the ravioli lies a refreshing filling that harmoniously blends langoustine tartare, rice vinegar, lemongrass, and mirin, a sweet sake-based condiment. It is in this umami-rich filling that the homage to Falotte’s beloved fried ravioli resides, albeit with the addition of a classic French bisque and the omission of the familiar sweet and sour sauce.
Successive courses veer away from Asian influences, but remain equally delectable. Scallops are paired with parsnips, Jerusalem artichokes, and buckwheat, while a pre-dessert of tagetes-infused apple precedes a divine pecan-coffee tartlet.
An ‘Instinctual’ Carte
The "instinctual" carte, as Falotte describes it, is a reflection of his culinary journey and his seasoned experience, having worked under Michelin-starred chef Christian Constant. It evolves with the seasons, offering diners a constant source of new discoveries.
While this culinary fluidity presents challenges, it also ensures that tomorrow’s Proust’s madeleine may differ from today’s, a tribute to the ever-evolving nature of Falotte’s gastronomic imagination.
Capsule Restaurant
2, rue Cassini
Paris 14e
Ravioli de langoustine: €14
Lunch formulas: Entrée-plat or plat-dessert €23, entrée-plat-dessert €28
Contributed by Elisa Nguyen Phung
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