Nice Aims to Protect Pan-Bagnat with European Label
The city of Nice has embarked on a journey to secure a European label for the pan-bagnat, a culinary icon of the region, in an effort to safeguard its authentic recipe from widespread deviations that have become commonplace throughout France. This traditional sandwich, a staple of Niçoise cuisine, is more than just a quick bite; it’s a symbol of local identity and culinary heritage that the municipality is determined to protect.
The core of the issue lies in the proliferation of pan-bagnat versions that stray significantly from the original recipe. Purists argue that the true pan-bagnat, a round bread soaked in olive oil, should only contain a specific combination of ingredients: tuna, tomatoes, radishes, spring onions (cébette), broad beans (févettes), green bell peppers, hard-boiled eggs, local olives, a basil leaf, and anchovies. These ingredients, carefully chosen and combined, create a harmonious balance of flavors that defines the authentic pan-bagnat experience.
What is strictly forbidden, according to the guardians of the tradition, are additions like mayonnaise, lettuce, or even chicken – ingredients that have unfortunately found their way into many commercially available versions. For the people of Nice, these adulterations are not just culinary missteps; they are almost a sacrilege, capable of eliciting strong reactions and genuine disappointment.
The city’s strategy to combat this culinary drift involves seeking recognition for the pan-bagnat as a "Traditional Speciality Guaranteed" (STG), a European label established in 1992. This label is one of five quality assurance designations within the European Union, designed to protect traditional food products from imitation and misrepresentation.
Currently, 66 products across Europe hold the STG label, including renowned delicacies like mozzarella cheese and Serrano ham. However, France lags behind in utilizing this particular quality designation. Only three French products currently benefit from the STG label: Bouchot mussels (moules de Bouchot), recognized since 2013; Berthoud Savoyard, a cheese-based dish from the Savoy region, added in 2020; and traditional Normandy beef, granted the label just last year.
The Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO), France’s national institute for origin and quality, clarifies the criteria for the STG label. "The Traditional Speciality Guaranteed corresponds to a product whose specific qualities are linked to a composition, manufacturing methods, or processing based on a tradition, but not its geographical origin," the INAO explains. "The STG is based on an ancient, typical, and local know-how, but can be produced outside its region of origin."
This distinction is crucial for the pan-bagnat. While the ingredients and preparation methods are deeply rooted in Niçoise tradition, the STG label would not restrict its production solely to Nice or the surrounding area. Instead, it would ensure that any pan-bagnat marketed as a "Traditional Speciality Guaranteed" adheres to the precise recipe and traditional preparation methods, regardless of where it is produced.
The pan-bagnat is a ubiquitous presence in Nice, sold in numerous establishments across the city, often at affordable prices, alongside other popular local specialties like pissaladière (an onion tart) and socca (a chickpea pancake). The hope is that securing the STG label will elevate the pan-bagnat’s status, ensuring its authenticity and preventing further dilution of its traditional character.
However, the process of obtaining the STG label is expected to be lengthy and complex, potentially taking several years. There is also no guarantee of success. The application will require rigorous documentation and evaluation to demonstrate that the pan-bagnat meets the stringent criteria for traditional speciality status.
Nevertheless, the city of Nice is committed to pursuing this goal. As Mayor Christian Estrosi stated during the launch of the local Mai festival, "Our pan-bagnat is not just a simple sandwich; it is an emblem of our Niçoise identity, of our culinary heritage, and of our art of living." The announcement of the STG application was made in conjunction with the festival, highlighting the cultural significance of the pan-bagnat to the city.
To further emphasize the importance of preserving the authentic pan-bagnat, a World Pan-Bagnat Championship was even organized on April 27th in the Saint-Roch neighborhood of Nice. This event served as a celebration of the traditional recipe and a platform for showcasing the skills and passion of local chefs dedicated to upholding its integrity.
The pursuit of the STG label is not merely about protecting a specific recipe; it’s about preserving a vital piece of Niçoise cultural identity. The pan-bagnat represents a connection to the past, a celebration of local ingredients, and a shared culinary experience that binds the community together. By safeguarding the authenticity of the pan-bagnat, the city of Nice hopes to ensure that future generations can continue to enjoy and appreciate this iconic symbol of their heritage.
