The Met Gala’s Complex Dance with Black Representation: A Closer Look

The 2025 Met Gala, themed to honor Black men in fashion, arrived with fanfare and good intentions, aiming to spotlight the often-overlooked contributions of Black individuals to the industry. Vogue’s editor-in-chief, Anna Wintour, and the event organizers framed it as a celebration of Black menswear’s evolution and the debonair flair of the Black dandy. While the event sought to raise funds for the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, the gala’s focus on Black history inevitably drew attention to Vogue’s and Wintour’s own complicated relationships with race, particularly her dynamic with the late André Leon Talley.

Talley, who passed away in 2022, was a groundbreaking figure in fashion journalism. Wintour highlighted his understanding of clothing as a narrative tool, a way to express personal history and self-respect. She acknowledged his pioneering role as Vogue’s creative director, the first Black man to hold such a position.

Their friendship, which began in 1983, saw them both break barriers in a notoriously exclusive industry. Talley ascended to become Vogue’s editor-at-large after Wintour was appointed editor-in-chief in 1988. Despite their close bond, tensions arose. Creative differences led to a falling out in 1995, followed by a more significant rift in 2018 when Wintour replaced Talley as the Met Gala red carpet host with YouTube personality Liza Koshy.

Talley expressed his hurt in his 2020 memoir, "The Chiffon Trenches," suggesting that Wintour deemed him "too fat and too old." He spoke candidly about their strained relationship, describing Wintour as becoming increasingly distant and inaccessible. While acknowledging the immense debt he owed her for the opportunities she provided, he also implied that she, in turn, owed him something.

Wintour’s interactions with Black celebrities have not always been smooth. The 2025 Met Gala sought to present a different image, featuring an all-Black slate of male co-hosts, including Pharrell Williams, Colman Domingo, A$AP Rocky, and Lewis Hamilton, alongside Wintour. LeBron James was named honorary co-chair, although he ultimately missed the event due to injury.

However, past controversies cast a shadow. James’s 2008 Vogue cover with Gisele Bündchen, shot by Annie Leibovitz, sparked outrage for its depiction of James in a manner that many felt evoked racist stereotypes. His pose and demeanor were interpreted as resembling a gorilla, reinforcing harmful imagery of Black men.

Leibovitz and Vogue have faced repeated criticism for their portrayals of Black cover stars, including Ketanji Brown Jackson, Simone Biles, and Zendaya, with concerns raised about framing and lighting that failed to adequately represent their subjects. The magazine has also been criticized for its predominantly white staff and its frequent featuring of white cover stars, designers, and models.

Following the deaths of George Floyd and Ahmaud Arbery in 2020, Wintour issued an apology, acknowledging Vogue’s failure to adequately elevate Black voices. She admitted that the magazine had published images and stories that were "hurtful or intolerant" and took responsibility for these mistakes.

Adding another layer of complexity, Billy Porter, a Black and gay actor known for his flamboyant style, is reportedly banned from the Met Gala after criticizing Wintour’s decisions. Porter criticized the choice of Harry Styles as the first man to have a solo cover on American Vogue, suggesting that Styles’s race and sexual orientation played a role in the selection. He recounted a conversation with Wintour where he urged her to use Vogue’s platform to uplift leaders of the de-gendering fashion movement, only to see Styles, wearing a dress, grace the cover months later.

In a tribute delivered at Talley’s memorial service, Wintour reflected on their friendship, acknowledging their differences and disagreements. She spoke of Talley’s fearlessness and his ability to see from the heart, expressing how much she missed him. She recognized the Met Gala as an event that was tailor-made for him and expressed sadness that he would not be there to experience it.

The Met Gala’s attempt to honor Black men in fashion reveals a complex and evolving landscape. While the event served as a platform for celebration and recognition, it also highlighted the fashion industry’s ongoing struggle with representation and inclusivity. The event also underscored Anna Wintour’s complicated relationship with race and her own past missteps. The memory of André Leon Talley looms large over this conversation, a reminder of both the progress made and the work that remains.

The first Monday in May serves as a reminder that some relationships, even fraught with complexities, can endure.