The Humble Garlic Press: From Swiss Mechanic to Culinary Debate
Karl Zysset (1907-1988), a Swiss mechanic and owner of a bicycle shop in Lyss, Canton Bern, may not have been a culinary icon known for his prodigious garlic consumption. Indeed, little is known about his personal relationship with the pungent bulb. Did he devour it daily? Perhaps spread a garlicky paste across his morning toast? The specifics remain shrouded in mystery. However, Zysset’s legacy in the culinary world is undeniable, for he invented the very first garlic press in the early 1950s – a revolutionary tool for anyone who appreciates the powerful flavor of garlic in their cooking.
This ingenious kitchen gadget was developed for his company, Zylyss. The original design comprised four simple aluminum components: two handles that acted as a clamp, a floating piston lever, and a cylinder with a perforated base. The beauty of the garlic press lay in its simplicity. To use it, one merely needed to place a clove of garlic in the center of the cylinder and squeeze the handles tightly. Their slightly curved shape was cleverly inspired by the ergonomics of bicycle brakes, a nod to Zysset’s professional background. The pressure from the piston forced the garlic through the holes, effectively creating a smooth, fragrant puree.
While the garlic press was a novel invention, it also sparked a quiet controversy that continues to this day. Some culinary purists argue that pressing garlic, rather than mincing or slicing it, fundamentally alters its flavor profile. They contend that the pressure releases harsher compounds, leading to a more bitter and aggressive taste. Despite these criticisms, the garlic press has remained a popular kitchen tool, embraced by home cooks and professional chefs alike for its convenience and efficiency.
David Lebovitz, a renowned Franco-American chef and cookbook author, offers an interesting perspective on the debate. His Parisian apartment boasts a kitchen that resembles Ali Baba’s cave, filled with a treasure trove of culinary tools and gadgets. Opening a drawer reveals a fascinating assortment of implements, each waiting for its moment to shine in the culinary spotlight. Lebovitz’s collection includes a variety of silicone spatulas, two types of apple corers, a peculiar cherry pitter, a collection of over fifteen knives with different shapes and purposes, and an imposing granite mortar and pestle.
But it’s his garlic press that holds our immediate attention. Specifically, a model from the German brand Westmark, characterized by its angular design and non-slip handles. Lebovitz recently discussed his evolving relationship with the garlic press in his weekly newsletter, read by hundreds of thousands of subscribers. He recounted how, driven by practicality, he gradually embraced the tool despite its perceived flaws.
“The problem with raw garlic,” Lebovitz explained, “is that it leaves its scent everywhere: on the knife, on the cutting board, on the countertop… and that can become unpleasant. The garlic press helps contain that strong odor in one place.” This argument highlights the convenience factor of the garlic press. It minimizes the mess and lingering aroma associated with preparing garlic, a significant advantage for busy cooks or those sensitive to strong smells.
Lebovitz’s pragmatism reflects a broader trend in modern cooking. While traditional techniques and tools are often valued for their authentic results, the demands of contemporary life often necessitate compromises. The garlic press, with its ability to quickly and cleanly process garlic, represents one such compromise. It may not produce the exact same flavor as finely minced garlic, but it offers a practical solution for adding garlic flavor to a wide range of dishes.
To illustrate his point, Lebovitz demonstrates the creation of one of his signature garlicky vinaigrettes. In a large terracotta salad bowl, he begins by whisking together two teaspoons of Edmond Fallot Dijon mustard with a tablespoon of Martin-Pouret red wine vinegar and two generous pinches of fleur de sel. The garlic clove is then fed into the Westmark garlic press, and the resulting puree is added to the mixture. While continuing to whisk, the chef slowly pours in approximately 6 centiliters of high-quality olive oil. The finished vinaigrette, a balance of acidity, fragrance, and a hint of piquancy, is then used to coat the tender leaves of a oak leaf lettuce.
The garlic press, in its various forms, has become an indispensable tool for countless cooks worldwide. Whether it’s a sleek stainless-steel model or a more utilitarian design, the basic principle remains the same: to quickly and efficiently transform whole garlic cloves into a readily usable puree.
The Westmark garlic press with removable grate, priced at 27€ at Alice Délice, exemplifies the modern iteration of Zysset’s groundbreaking invention. From its humble origins in a Swiss bicycle shop to its place in the well-equipped kitchens of renowned chefs, the garlic press has proven its enduring appeal. It’s a testament to the power of simple design and the universal desire for culinary convenience. While the debate about the "correct" way to prepare garlic may continue, the garlic press remains a practical and versatile tool that allows cooks of all levels to easily incorporate the bold flavor of garlic into their favorite dishes. It is a reminder that innovation, even in the realm of cooking, often lies in finding clever solutions to everyday challenges. And in this case, the challenge was, and still is, how to get the most garlic flavor with the least amount of fuss.
