A Slice of Memory: Chef Gregory Leon’s Devils Food Cake and the Sweetness of Remembrance
Devils food cake, a beloved chocolate indulgence cherished since its inception in the early 20th century, holds a special place in the hearts of countless dessert enthusiasts. For James Beard Award-nominated chef Gregory Leon, however, it transcends mere culinary delight, embodying a profound connection to his past, his family, and the realization of his lifelong dream. Leon, the owner of Amilinda, a celebrated restaurant in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, attributes deep personal significance to this seemingly simple cake. It’s more than just a recipe; it’s a tangible link to his late mother and a symbol of his journey to finding success and belonging.
Every year, on the first day of August, Leon meticulously recreates his mother’s devils food cake, a tradition steeped in love and remembrance. This date is doubly significant: it marks both his birthday and the anniversary of Amilinda’s opening, intertwining personal celebration with professional accomplishment. The cake, a testament to his mother’s enduring influence, serves as a poignant reminder of his roots and the driving force behind his culinary passion.
Leon’s path to becoming a successful chef and restaurateur was far from straightforward. His early childhood was spent in Venezuela, his father’s homeland, far removed from the culinary scene of Milwaukee. After spending 18 years in the vibrant city of San Francisco, he found himself yearning for the opportunity to own his own restaurant, a dream that seemed increasingly unattainable in the expensive California landscape.
Driven by ambition and a desire for a more affordable environment, Leon made the bold decision to relocate to Milwaukee in 2012. He initially intended to visit a friend, but the city quickly captured his heart. He recognized a potential he hadn’t foreseen, a welcoming atmosphere, and a chance to finally realize his dream of owning a restaurant.
"I knew that I would never be able to own my own restaurant there [San Francisco], which was the ultimate goal," Leon shared in an interview. Milwaukee offered a fresh start, a chance to build something from the ground up in a city that felt surprisingly like home.
In 2015, Leon’s vision materialized with the opening of Amilinda. Inspired by the diverse and flavorful cuisines of Spain and Portugal, Amilinda quickly gained recognition for its innovative dishes and dedication to locally sourced ingredients. The menu, a carefully curated selection of weekly changing offerings, showcases the best of Wisconsin’s seasonal produce, complemented by specialty ingredients imported directly from the Iberian Peninsula. Amilinda presents an elegant yet accessible experience, appealing to discerning palates and neighborhood locals alike.
Leon’s culinary talent and dedication to his craft have not gone unnoticed. He has garnered significant acclaim within the culinary world, earning three James Beard Award nominations. In 2022 and 2023, he was honored as a finalist for the prestigious Best Chef: Midwest award. In 2024 he was recognized as a semifinalist for the Outstanding Chef award. While he is grateful for these accolades, Leon emphasizes that no amount of professional recognition can compare to the emotional resonance of his mother’s devils food cake.
The cake, for Leon, is more than just a dessert; it’s a connection to his family history and a symbol of the love and support that shaped him into the person he is today. It’s a sensory experience that transports him back to his childhood, evoking cherished memories of his mother and the warmth of her kitchen.
“It’s an amazing cake,” Leon says. “It stands on its own. It doesn’t need a lot of bells and whistles. It’s 100% chocolate – and it’s one of the things that stand the test of time.” The simplicity of the cake is what makes it so profound. It’s a classic recipe, unadorned and timeless, that speaks to the enduring power of tradition and the enduring bond between a mother and her son.
The recipe for Leon’s mother’s devils food cake is surprisingly straightforward, reflecting the unpretentious nature of the dessert itself. The ingredients are simple and readily available, yet the result is a rich and decadent cake that embodies the essence of chocolate perfection.
Gregory Leon’s Mother’s Devils Food Cake Recipe:
Ingredients:
- 2 cups flour
- ½ cup margarine
- ⅔ cup cocoa
- 2 cups sugar
- 3 eggs
- 1 ½ cups milk
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- 1 teaspoon baking soda
- ½ teaspoon salt
- 1 teaspoon vanilla
Instructions:
- In a bowl, stir together flour, cocoa, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.
- In a large bowl, cream together margarine and sugar until light and fluffy. Add eggs and mix well.
- Gradually stir in the dry ingredients and milk, alternating between the two, until all ingredients are fully blended.
- Stir in vanilla extract.
- Pour batter into two greased 8- or 9-inch cake pans.
- Bake at 350 degrees Fahrenheit (175 degrees Celsius) for 25 to 30 minutes, or until a wooden skewer inserted into the center comes out clean.
- Let the cakes cool in the pans for 10 minutes before inverting them onto a wire rack to cool completely.
Frosting:
- ½ cup margarine
- 2-3 tablespoons warm milk
- 1 teaspoon vanilla
- ¼ cup cocoa
- 2 cups powdered sugar
While the recipe itself may seem simple, the key to its success lies in the quality of the ingredients and the care with which it is prepared. Leon emphasizes the importance of using high-quality cocoa and fresh ingredients to achieve the cake’s signature rich flavor and moist texture.
More than just a dessert, Gregory Leon’s devils food cake stands as a powerful symbol of remembrance, resilience, and the enduring power of family. It is a testament to the fact that even the simplest of things can hold profound meaning and that the sweetest memories can often be found in the most unexpected places. It showcases that the recipe, passed down from a mother to her son, continues to nourish not only the body but also the soul, connecting the chef to his roots and providing inspiration as he continues his culinary journey.
