A Dreamlike Collaboration: Sarah Moon and Yohji Yamamoto’s Photographic Dialogue

The meeting of two artistic giants, Sarah Moon and Yohji Yamamoto, has resulted in a collection of photographs that are as ethereal and evocative as one might expect. The images, predominantly featuring Yamamoto’s clothing, possess a quality akin to figures emerging from ink paintings. Moon, a celebrated French fashion photographer, is renowned for her fleeting, suggestive style, while Yamamoto, the iconic Japanese designer, is known for his draped black garments that sculpturally envelop the body. This shared sensibility for transcending mere fashion to create timeless artifacts is brilliantly captured in their collaborative book, published by Delpire & Co.

The book, a testament to a partnership that began in the 1990s, features forty-five photographs by Sarah Moon, many of which are previously unpublished. Their enigmatic beauty is palpable on every page. The project was a true collaboration, with both artists working hand-in-hand to bring their vision to life.

The images are characterized by their somber tonalities, punctuated by occasional flashes of muted light. The black and white photographs possess a captivating aura, their edges often blurred, inviting the viewer to complete the narrative. Moon herself encapsulates the essence of Yamamoto’s work, remarking in an exchange that serves as a preface to the book, "What fascinates me in your work is that, most of the time, you drape the woman in black, and yet… each time you find another way to do it." This statement highlights the close alignment of their creative processes and their shared pursuit of "surprise" in their work.

The beauty of this book lies not only in the visual artistry but also in the honest and insightful reflections of Moon and Yamamoto on their artistic practices. Moon speaks of her relentless "race for the chimera," that almost tragic need to be present at the right moment to capture the ephemeral. Yamamoto, on the other hand, discusses his constant fittings and the self-doubt that plagues him: "Should I change? Should I start over? Should I stop? It’s like a punishment."

The inherent struggles of creating something new, of pushing boundaries, is deeply understood by both artists. Moon’s question, "What drives you to continue?" elicits a revealing response from Yamamoto. "It’s an important question. Maybe my anger towards my society, my world, because it’s not exactly as I would like it to be. If I hadn’t become a couturier, maybe I would have become a killer," he confesses. This raw honesty exposes the deep passion and frustration that fuels his creativity, hinting at the powerful emotions that are subtly woven into his designs.

The book is structured to offer a comprehensive view of their collaborative journey and individual perspectives. The opening section features a striking portrait of Yamamoto taken by Moon, followed by images of his collections from the 1990s. These iconic pieces, having indelibly marked the visual landscape of fashion, feel both familiar and yet newly discovered through Moon’s lens. Her photographic approach adds a layer of dreaminess and emotional depth that enhances the impact of Yamamoto’s designs.

Interspersed throughout the book are key words that resonate deeply with Yamamoto’s design philosophy: asymmetry, destruction, metamorphosis, opposition. These words are not merely labels; they are guiding principles that inform his artistic choices and define his unique aesthetic. They are the building blocks of his deconstructed yet elegant garments. The reader gains insight into the creative process of an artist constantly challenging conventional ideas of beauty and form.

The collection of previously unseen photographs showcases creations from Yamamoto’s recent collections. These images, presented in both color and black and white, reveal the continued evolution of his artistic vision. Moon’s masterful use of light and shadow imbues these creations with a sense of mystery and depth, further blurring the line between fashion photography and fine art.

The book itself is designed as an art object. Every detail, from the paper stock to the layout, has been carefully considered to enhance the viewing experience. The book concludes with a poignant sketch by Yamamoto: a figure seen from behind, enveloped in a large coat, radiating an air of profound mystery. This simple yet powerful image encapsulates the essence of Yamamoto’s design philosophy and serves as a fitting coda to this extraordinary collaboration.

In essence, this book is more than a mere compilation of fashion photographs; it is a visual dialogue between two artists who share a deep understanding of beauty, form, and the human condition. It is an exploration of the ephemeral, a celebration of the timeless, and a testament to the power of collaboration. Sarah Moon’s evocative photography, combined with Yohji Yamamoto’s revolutionary designs, creates a world that is both captivating and profound, inviting the viewer to enter a realm where fashion transcends its commercial purpose and becomes a true form of artistic expression.

This book, "Dialogue Sarah Moon, Yohji Yamamoto," published by Delpire & Co., is a worthy addition to the libraries of fashion enthusiasts, photography aficionados, and anyone interested in the intersection of art and design. It offers a glimpse into the creative minds of two of the most influential artists of our time.